Some Hints on Growing Roses

The growing of high quality roses depends on several factors which are: a suitable location, fertile soil, good drainage, correct planting, good quality stock and good cultural practices.

For the location of a rose-bed, always keep in mind that roses require at least six hours of sun per day. If the bed is in a place where it gets shade, afternoon shade is preferable to morning shade.

Good drainage and fertile soil go hand in hand. The drainage is very important. While roses require large quantities of water they do not want to stand in soggy soil. In preparing the bed, dig in plenty of well-rotted manure and compost. If these are not available, use a commercial fertilizer such as 510-5 well incorporated into the soil.

When planting, do not let the roots dry out and if several roses are being planted, soak the roots in a mixture of muddy water. Prepare the hole large enough so that the roots can be spread out and down. Plant with the union of graft one to two inches below the surface of the soil. Cut the canes back to 8 or 10 inches. A good Number 1 rose should have at least three heavy canes. Be sure to fill in the earth around the roots very firmly and water well. After planting I like to hill earth right over the entire bush for a period of 8 to 10 days, then remove the earth gradually. This prevents the tops from drying out before the' roots have had a chance to take hold. Roses should be planted as early as possible.

Winter protection is important in our climate, and a covering is necessary. Many growers cut the canes back to 18 to 24 inches; this prevents whipping in the wind. The roses should be mounded with earth, as high as possible and the higher the better. This should be done just before freeze-up. Evergreen boughs can be stood up in the ground; this helps to retain a good covering of snow. If the foliage has not dropped remove the leaves by hand. This will help prevent mildew, especially on climbers. Climbers can be mounded as described above but the long canes should not be cut back. The canes should be laid down and covered with burlap and a good mulch of 'evergreen boughs. Leaves pack too tightly and smother the plant and straw attracts field mice.

When the time comes to uncover the roses, try to do it on a dull damp day, not in the hot dry sun.

Roses for the most part can be divided into four, main classes: Hybrid Teas, Grandifloras, Floribundas and Climbers. The following are some of my favourites:

Hybrid Teas Chicago Peace (salmon pink), Christian Dior (Scarlet) ,Canadiana (golden yellow), Matterhorn (pure white), Royal Highness (shell pink).

Grandifloras J. S. Armstrong (crimson), Mount Shasta (pure white), Queen Elizabeth (pink), Montezuma (salmon pink) , Floriade (orange) Floribundas Apricot Nectar (apricot), Frolic (deep pink), Green Fire (greenish yellow), Heat Wave (fiery red), Ruby Lips (bright red).

Climbers Improved Blaze (Crimson), Clair Matin (shell pink), Dr. J. D. Nicholas (pink Pillar).

Also the two Centennial roses: Miss Canada (hybrid tea: deep pink with lighter pink reverse) and Centennial rose (floribunda: coral with salmon overtones) .

Please contact the OHS or the author if you wish to republish these articles. © Ottawa Horticultural Society

Back to index of articles